TIME FOR TUNING
The first step to tuning is to make sure that the arrow is coming away from the bow cleanly. The easiest way to do this is a powder test. Take a can of foot powder and spray the back seven or eight inches of the arrow. Also spray the arrow rest and the shelf (the flat part of the bow under the arrow rest). Shoot an arrow into a solid target, and carefully remove it for inspection. Check the arrow rest and shelf. If any new marks have shown up in the powder, you are getting fletching contact and need to either rotate your nocks or change the spring tension on your arrow rest and repeat the test. Also check the arrow. Depending on the type of arrow rest, you will have one to three stripes where the arrow rode down the rest. Make sure that all of these lines do not come in contact with the vanes. If they do, you will have to rotate the nock on the back of the arrow.

PAPER TUNING
Paper tuning gives a great visual indication of what the arrow is doing when it leaves the bow. Standing about six feet from a piece of paper, you shoot an arrow through the paper and read the resulting tear. It is similar to taking a photo of the arrow as it is leaving the bow. First make sure you are using a straight arrow. I cannot begin to tell you the number of hours I wasted trying to tune a slightly crooked arrow. If you fail to remember this step, be sure to wear a hat to keep yourself from pulling all of your hair out.

From about six feet away, shoot the arrow through the paper. Ideally you will have a single hole measuring the diameter of the arrow with three small tears where the vanes went through. Shoot the same arrow two or three times and look for the consistency in your tears. Just because you get the results you want once does not mean you can ignore the rest of the tears. If the tear is vertical, or at an angle, adjust the nock height first. If the point of the arrow appears to have gone through the arrow lower than the nock end, lower the nock or slightly raise the arrow rest. The good news about paper tuning is if you go the wrong way, you will see the tear getting worse. If this happens, simply adjust in the other direction.

Once you have a tear that is completely horizontal, you will need to adjust the arrow rest in and out. Whereas when the tear matchs the direction the arrow needs to be moved on a vertical tear, it is the opposite on a horizontal tear. For example, if the tear shows the nock end to the right of point, move the arrow rest (point) farther to the left. Again, you do not have to remember all of this from the top of your head. If you get a bad tear, move the rest 1/8 inch in either direction. If the tear improves, you are going the right way; if it gets worse, move it in the opposite direction.
When you start tearing bullet holes, or close to them, less than 1/2 inch from about six feet, step back a couple of feet and try it again. As the arrow oscillates or porpoises through the paper, it is possible to tune to a harmonic where it is straight as it travels through the paper giving a false reading. With an indication of a clean tear at two different distances, you are assured that the arrow is traveling out of the bow straight and true.

GROUP TUNING
For most archers the only thing left to do after paper tuning is to set the sights. For those who truly want the most accurate and forgiving setup, you need to also group tune. While I highly recommend paper tuning and feel that it is a critical part of the tuning process, the only thing it guarantees is that the bow is extremely accurate from six feet. (Unfortunately, all of the bucks I have taken have been from distances far greater than six feet.)
After paper tuning, shoot and set your sight pins. Then shoot a group at your maximum-accurate, distance, noting any arrows that were simply bad shots on your part. Next, shoot another group but remove 1/4 turn from your top limb. Check to see if the group gets better or worse. Repeat this test in 1/4-turn increments until you reach one full turn. Then return the top limb to zero and repeat the test for the bottom limb in 1/4-turn increments. Using a different target, such as paper plates, each time you adjust the tiller should leave you with a visual record of the bow's groups with different tiller settings. Set the tiller to the measurement that grouped the best overall, and adjust your sight pins to this new setting.